A midnight blue dinner suit with silk peak lapels and a black bow tie in a chandelier-lit ballroom

Soboye

The Midnight Peak-Lapel Dinner Suit

For: Black tie — an awards dinner, a gala, a winter wedding after seven

Midnight blue reads blacker than black under chandeliers, and a silk-faced peak lapel is the one detail worth paying for. This is the correct answer to a black-tie invitation.

Colour
Midnight blue
Cloth
Midnight barathea with silk-faced peak lapels
Cut
Jacket to mid-seat
Detail
Silk peak lapel, braided trouser stripe, one button

Indicative UK market range: £1,400–£2,800

On your frame

  • Broad / muscularWide peak lapel, no shoulder padding, and one button placed at the natural waist.
  • Tall and leanKeep the jacket long enough to cover the seat and the trouser full to the shoe.
  • CompactShorten the jacket, raise the trouser to the true waist, and skip the cummerbund.
  • Fuller figureOpen quarters, a lower button stance, and a cummerbund rather than a waistcoat.

What to do next

01 — The introduction

If this is the shape you want, tell me the occasion and date and I will point you at the right house for it.

Tell me the occasion, the date and your budget bracket. Within 24 hours you get back: two or three houses I would actually approach and why those and not others, the alterations to insist on for your build, a realistic timeline for your date, and a short written brief you can hand to the tailor at the first fitting.

  • No fee, no commission, nothing sold here.
  • If nobody I trust fits your date or budget, I say so.
  • Read by me, answered by me.
Request an introduction
02 — If the date is further off

The House Letter

One letter a month: what I wore and to which occasion, what it cost, what I would change, and the two or three houses worth your time that month. No offers, no forwarding your address, one click to leave.