FAI World — looks worth considering

For: Owambe / afternoon reception / a 40th where you want colour

Strong shoulders, clean pockets, colour that photographs beautifully in British light. The most useful entry point if you want presence without commissioning bespoke.

Tall and lean? Ask for a slightly longer jacket and a wider trouser — the standard cut can look boyish on height.

For: Aso-ebi where you want a two-piece rather than a robe

The version I would choose when the family cloth is strong and the room is warm. A senator cut from the group cloth reads as part of the set from across the hall and as tailoring up close.

Indicative UK market range: £280–£600 to make up, cloth excluded

Broad builds: no padding, and keep the button stance clean down the centre.

For: Reception after a ceremonial first look / late supper / a party indoors

An unstructured ivory jacket over a black trouser is the fastest change of register there is. It reads evening without asking you to wear evening dress.

Indicative UK market range: £350–£700

Tall frames should keep the jacket long and the trouser clean at the shoe.

For: A garden wedding, a naming ceremony, or the day after the main event

A belted safari jacket in olive gives you a jacket without a suit's formality. It is the most photographed thing I own at daytime events, and the belt is what makes it work.

Indicative UK market range: £650–£1,200

Full-figured frames should leave the belt off and wear it straight.

For: Black tie in summer — an outdoor dinner, a destination wedding after dark

An ivory jacket over black trousers is the only real variation black tie allows, and it is for warm evenings only. Matte cloth, shawl collar, and nothing in the buttonhole.

Full-figured frames should keep the quarters open and the lapel narrow.